Bon appétit!
Alongside the performing and visual arts, culinary art has its own rightful place, and mastery of it can delight millions of admirers. It is renowned chefs who, as if by magic, transform a basic physiological need for food into high art. Pyotr Vail, author of Russian Cuisine in Exile, argues that “in none of the noble arts, including ballet and literature, is there as much room for imagination and variation as in cooking. And no art lends itself so readily to self-expression.”
In the capital of a multicultural country like Ottawa, you can find every kind of restaurant imaginable. It seems gastronomic tours in our city could go on forever. That is why it is hard to believe that for many years Ottawa’s Russian-speaking community had no opportunity to enjoy the familiar, beloved food of childhood. To satisfy nostalgic culinary cravings, people had to travel to Montreal or Toronto, where restaurants featuring the national cuisines of the former Soviet Union and the post-Soviet world already existed.
And now, at last, it has happened! In the very heart of Ottawa, in the ByWard Market area at 86 Murray Street, a Caucasian-cuisine restaurant called Yan’s has opened. What a wonderful gift for all of us! How long many have dreamed of this, believed, and hoped! The creators of the restaurant—set in a cozy, renovated space that once housed an Italian pizzeria, just a five-minute walk from the National Gallery of Canada—showed originality by naming it not after the owner, but essentially after a linguistic code: 99% of Armenian surnames end in “-yan.” The team’s creative approach is evident in the menu as well.
Have you, dear readers, ever been to the Caucasus? Even if you haven’t, you have surely heard of Caucasian cuisine. Once you have tasted a skillfully prepared Caucasian dish, rich with its unique spicy aroma, you instinctively want to experience something similar again.
The distinctive, aromatic flavors of the Armenian and Georgian dishes offered at this new restaurant linger blissfully in the memory. And the desire to return to try something else grows almost exponentially when you watch—with curiosity and warmth—the coordinated work of the servers, deftly bringing diners a variety of dishes with unusual ingredients and fantastic aromas. The elegance and confidence of their movements, along with the comfortable interior, create a special atmosphere that envelops everyone from the moment they step inside—those who choose to dine “Caucasus-style,” meaning, in the best sense of the word, with generous flair.
As tastes differ, so do orders—and the variety is striking. Some savor khinkali, peppered from a traditionally huge wooden pepper grinder; others can’t take their eyes off khachapuri of unbelievable size. Some, not having decided in advance what to try, sip Georgian semi-sweet wine or the famous Armenian cognac “Ararat”… But everyone’s faces look content, serene, happy.
Life is good when you are happy. But it is even better when others are happy thanks to you. Living for others is a rule of nature. Rivers do not drink their own water, and trees do not eat their own fruit. The sun does not shine for itself, and flowers do not spread their fragrance for themselves… I believe that at Yan’s there is a joyful team of like-minded people working in harmony and friendship. I cannot help but mention the person who served me (and many others at the same time). His name is DMITRY KOROTKOV. I would say he is a waiter by God’s grace: with excellent communication skills, a brilliant knowledge of the menu and the nuances of Caucasian cuisine, natural charisma, tact, ease of movement, and the ability to instantly adapt to changing situations. Dima managed to give attention to every guest, while simultaneously acting as a bartender—literally juggling glasses, flutes, and bottles, creating impressive cocktails before the eyes of the distinguished public… In short, with employees like this, the new restaurant has the brightest prospects!
Still, the main purpose of visiting such a place is not to exchange a few words with a waiter in love with his work, but to eat well. That is why special thanks are due to everyone who, of course, puts a piece of their heart into preparing each dish. The menu may not be enormous like in Chinese or Vietnamese restaurants, but it is extensive, and every dish is distinctive, requiring an individual approach. I could see a chicken roasting in a large oven, and the person monitoring the process turned it so carefully—as if it were a baby in a cradle! I watched a baked-eggplant appetizer being assembled with chopped walnuts, garlic, and a dairy component—both the presentation and the process itself draw your attention.
What delighted me most was my order: two popular Armenian dishes, both served in clay pots—tolma (stuffed grape leaves) and khash. I’m writing about it now and my mouth is watering… Oh, how delicious it is! Tolma compares very favorably with its Greek-restaurant counterpart: cooked in a pot under a closed lid, grape leaves generously filled with minced meat and rice are far tastier than the Greek version. And such food is exceptionally healthy. I would even say this is the BEST tolma in North America—and I am a seasoned foodie who has tried similar dishes in expensive restaurants in New York, Washington, Boston, Vancouver, and Toronto. As for khash, it is simply a masterpiece. I was, as they say, speechless with pleasure! Lamb simmered in a small amount of rich broth, together with potatoes that complement and emphasize the flavor of meat that melts in your mouth, cannot be compared to any delicacies, snacks, or gourmet treats. For true lamb lovers who know what they’re talking about, this is a divine dish—one that absolutely makes sense to try, and not just anywhere, but at Yan’s in downtown Ottawa.
Well done to those who took the risk and weren’t afraid to open such a restaurant in Ottawa; who accepted this responsibility; who made a bold statement not with pretty words, but with vivid actions—through exquisitely prepared dishes, spectacular presentation, and the unforgettable impressions left with visitors! Go and see for yourself the sincerity of my words, inspired by the powerful positive emotions I received from making the right choice!
MARINA KOCHETOVA